Archive for June, 2010
Many gardeners prefer to grow their tomatoes from seeds instead of replanting seedlings. For them, they feel that they have better control over the environment of their tomato plants. Some feel that seedlings may be subject to the pests and chemicals found at the nurseries in which they were grown.
Growing tomatoes from seeds is a series of steps that requires specific timing. Since frost is dangerous for tomato plants, one should begin with the process of “harvesting seeds” at least 6-8 weeks prior to the end of what is normally considered the period in which frosts will occur. The first step would be to acquire the variety of tomato that you prefer and to remove all the seeds. Some pulp will come out along with the seeds but that can be washed off later. Once you have removed the seeds, put them in a bowl, cover generously with water and wash the seeds from the pulp and juice. If you planted the seeds without washing them, they would still germinate and grow perfectly well however. Washing the seeds just makes the storing and planting much easier and keeps them from sticking together. You will have to repeat the washing process a few times to insure that all the pulp is gone and only the seeds remain.
Separate the clean seeds and place them on a flat tray to be dried naturally in the sun. When the seeds are dry ( a full day in the air and sun) they should be placed in an air tight container for storage. Note: Naturally grown and pollinated tomatoes will be the best source (local farmer) from which to acquire your seeds. Just purchase a few tomatoes! You will need to harvest your tomato seeds in the prior growing season. Otherwise use commercially grown (supermarket) tomatoes for your seeds; or, harvest seeds from the farm this year, store for next year, and this year practice gardening with supermarket seeds.
Creating a good soil starter mix is important. A good recipe: 1/3 compost, 1/3 vermiculite and 1/3 peat moss. Water the soil mix until it is moist to a depth of at least two inches, and you can squeeze up little mounds with your fingers. Plant your seeds 1-2 per site and cover with about 1/2 inch of soil. Keep the soil in a warm location and insure that the soil stays moist. Don’t puddle the water or you will wash the seeds away. The seeds will take from 10-15 days to germinate. Once the plants slowly begin to sprout, they should be placed under a source of light for up to 16 hours a day. A fluorescent light placed 6 inches from the top of the sprouts will ensure proper growth. Use an automatic timer to give the sprouted plants the correct lighted and dark periods. Pinch off/remove some of the weaker sprouts to reduce the crowding.
When the seedlings have developed a couple of leaves it is time to move them to the outdoors in separate pots or into the garden. Keep in mind that these are still young plants and can not survive intense, direct sun or cold night time temperatures. Be prepared to provide sun shade and covers from cold weather.
When you relocate the young tomato plants to their permanent location plant them one and one half to two inches deeper than they were in the starter mix. Remove the bottom leaves if necessary. Once in the ground, heap the soil up around the stalk. Planting them deeper will allow the stalk to send out more roots which will provide more support for your plant that is going to have some big, juicy tomatoes hanging on them. Additionally, burying the stems deeper will encourage more root growth, to soak up more nutrients for the growing plant. Pinch off the top half inch or so of each plant after planting. This will force the growth down to those new roots.
Water the new seedlings thoroughly at the time of planting to ease the shock of replanting. Tomatoes love water and sunlight on a consistent basis. So insure that the soil is always moist…not wet! If you are gardening in containers make sure that you have a drain hole in the bottom of your container for the water to flow out. Water each of the plants until you can see water running out the bottom.
A few precautions during your growing season will include being prepared for high winds that can bend and break your plants. A freak cold spell, intensely hot sun that will burn your ripening fruit; birds, rabbits, dogs, squirrels and neighbors can each cause damage to your tomatoes. Before your plants grow too large purchase a tomato ‘cage’, or build a wire mesh, use doweling or stakes, as a structure that will hold up those heavy vines filled with big ripe tomatoes!
Good Gardening.
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About the Author:
Adam Bradley just wanted some great tasting tomatoes! His family had so much fun “tomato farming” it got out of hand. When people began asking for advice, he used first hand knowledge and research to offer tips on growing tomatoes from seeds. Read more here: http://tomatogardencenter.com/growing-tomatoes-from-seeds/. He invites anyone who would like some great tips, to his free Mini-Course on growing tomatoes: http://www.tomatogardencenter.com.
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About the Author:
This author writes about Seedless Grape Plants and How To Plant Grape
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